Recent Repairs

There is something crafty about repairing old clothes. There are some frequent spots that have damage, such as the collar of a jacket or the knee on a pair of jeans. Others are entirely unique to an individuals’ life. It is kinda like reading a journal entry with the people’s names redacted.

The tricky part is figuring out how to best repair an entire garment repair by repair. Mentally there has to be a game plan, a theme. There may be a point on a piece of clothing that helps determine a starting point, but usually it’s just experimenting with a stitched together narrative. Piece by piece, repair by repair the theme begins to take shape.

Eventually you find a place to end. With this post I wanted to share where I ended. Some of these repairs are small and simple, others were time-consuming. This is a short journey of hobos, mechanics, and nomad bikers.

Recent Repairs Levis Sakiori 2 Recent Repairs Levis Sakiori 1Sunday Craftsman Mechanic Jacket 2 Sunday Craftsman Mechanic Jacket 4 Nomad Biker Vest 3 Nomad Biker Vest 4 DSCF1922 DSCF1923

 

There are also these Kapital century denim repairs. Since the vertical sashiko threads stand out, the repair stitching looked good horizontal, and blended. The contrasting colors mix well, indigo and grey; grey, brown, and indigo. It was important to keep the texture consistent, to keep a rough and tough looking fabric.

Recent Repairs Century Denim Sashiko Darning 1

Recent Repairs Century Denim Sashiko Darning 2

Recent Repairs Century Denim Sumi and Kakishibu patch

BTWXTBA | October Wools and Checks

This is the third set of items that Narita-san and I have finished. The temperature has finally started to fall and it is time we brought out the wools and flannels.

BTWXTBA October 2

This cardigan is a slightly altered version of the Doryman sweater. The repair spots are slightly different. Note the button-hole stitching and pocket repairs. BTWXTBA October 3

On the rear side we changed out the hickory stripe elbow pads for sakiori ones. The grey and indigo colours mix in the ecru knit really nicely. The striped pattern breaks up the background Aran patterning nicely.BTWXTBA October 1
BTWXTBA October 4

These items will be available in my Etsy store.
BTWXTBA October 5

This old Big Mac flannel shirt has all the colors of fall with the addition of some charming denim details.BTWXTBA October 6

I wanted to make the shirt more useful as an outer garment. The small coin pocket from a pair of painter pants can now function as a train ticket pocket. The large lower pocket will hold a wallet and some other small items.
BTWXTBA October 7

There are a lot of tiny darned repairs that add a subtle texture.

BTWXTBA October 9

The last items are these two Pendleton wool shirts. The leather patches contrast the subtle colours of each different check. Reminiscent of hunting jackets, the rugged homemade style is purposely simple. These two shirts have darker wool checks will be perfect for mid-fall.

BTWXTBA October 1 (1) BTWXTBA October 12 BTWXTBA October 13

The Doryman Sweater

I have gotten a lot of positive feed back about this sweater from readers and so I thought it best to feature it, to properly introduce it. It is for sale and if you have any questions about it please feel free to shoot me a mail.

Brown Tabby Works X The Bandanna Almanac The Dory Man Sweater 1

This Aran knit sweater was a blank canvas. The high quality wool and timeless design served as a foundation to build from. Narita-san kept with the fisherman theme, through the hickory stripe denim and dark navy stitching. This sweater reminds me of the dorymen in Winslow Homer paintings. The trusty fisherman’s sweater taking the brunt of the elements, and the wear and tear of hauling pots or hooks. The workers of old reused what they already had and modified as needed. Brown Tabby Works X The Bandanna Almanac The Dory Man Sweater 2

On the back, the hand stitched elbow patches add more character, the hickory stripe denim meshes well with the knit. The blue yarn in the darning and the denim scraps used for the pocket and elbow add rugged accents to it.

Brown Tabby Works X The Bandanna Almanac The Dory Man Sweater 3

Carefully choosing the hickory stripe denim and chest pocket to keep the old ragged appearance; Narita-san chose this dirt stained pocket. Not only to add more function to the garment but also to break up the tones a bit. Brown Tabby Works X The Bandanna Almanac The Dory Man Sweater 4

Doryman Sweater Blue Denim 1 Doryman Sweater Blue Denim 2 Doryman Sweater Blue Denim 3 Doryman Sweater Blue Denim 4

Brown Tabby Works X The Bandanna Almanac

I have been gathering worn out, and faded items over the past few years. Narita-san and I have teamed up to bring these items back to life with a more shibui feel to them. Through detailed repairs we bring out the faded beauty of each item, their individual stories become apparent by keeping the stains and scars. We also add some more function to them by stitching pockets and altering the length of some items. All items and future items are/will be available on my new Etsy site. Kishoten…, means: introduction, development, turn… and the conclusion is up to each customer. From the Japanese 起承転結.

The first item we have completed is this noragi. I wanted to keep the original repairs and fabric on this piece, so we shortened the length and added pockets to the font side. The addition of a blanket pin acts as a closure, to keep the rustic theme.

Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 7 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 10 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 8 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 9

The second item is this Red Cross Army vest. The worsted wool in Army green has a mother-made feel to it. Probably because these were hand-knit by housewives and volunteers during the two world wars. This one had several holes in it. So we used some old sock yarn and hand-darned each hold. This adds a little colorful contrast to the otherwise mute khaki green.

Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 1 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 2 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 3 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 4 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 5 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 6

The third is my personal favorite. I found a Harley Davidson dude’s Lee Storm Rider. There was a lot of wear and damage to the entire piece that made it very unique. We cut out the back panel and put in a repurposed Chimayo fabric from a Kapital vest. The holes we are all patched with indigo thread. The collar features a nice contrast green corduroy patch, and the blanket lining inside was patched with fabric from a Warner Brothers Costume Department tunic.

Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 13 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 12 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 16 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 11 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 15 Brown Tabby Works x Bandanna Almanac 14

Repair | The Hand-Darn

Hand Darning 1

In the last episode the backside patch was featured. This time Narita-san will be demonstrating a completely hand-stitched repair. The hand-darn is the strongest and most time consuming of the repairs I will be featuring.

Start off with good sturdy thread. In this case we used indigo-dyed hemp. The darn repair can be used in knit repairs, especially socks and sweaters. If your jeans get a premature blowout then this is the repair you will want to use, as it can be blended with unfaded fabric easier. I surrendered by self-dyed kakishibu canvas hat for this repair.
Hand Darning 2

A big thick needle will take care of the heavy thread and make weaving it through much easier. Just look at the difference between a standard sewing needle and this darning needle.

Hand Darning (1)

As a note, darning can be done by hand, but so much of the beauty which is part of a hand-darn is lost in the machine. The hand-darn is a beautiful repair, and with enough practice and patience you can make your repairs really special.

First start with a knot on one end of your thread it pull it tight.

Hand Darning 4

The first stitch should be small right next to where the thread came out from the knot hole. The second stitch should come out about 2 or 3 mm from the actual hole (in the example there is no hole). Then bring the thread over the hole and push the needle through the front side about 2 or 3 mm from the hole. Then make another small stitch almost right next to the hole the thread came through. From here you will do the same thing to cover the hole with weft stitches.

Hand Darning 5

Take your time on these and try to get them to line up neatly.

Hand Darning 6

If the hole is not circular don’t worry you can shape the darn as it goes along.

Hand Darning 7

Once you get to the other end of the whole you will push the needle through to the back one more time. Now you will start to weave the warp threads in.

Hand Darning 8

Over under over under, again and again. Remember to push the needle through and back to the front after you finish each row.

Hand Darning 9

Really take your time here and tap the threads into place so it is all neat and tight.

Hand Darning 10

At the end make sure to squeeze the last weave in tight. This will ensure a solid and secure repair.

Hand Darning 11 Hand Darning

Use an embroidery knot to finish the stitch on the reverse-side of the fabric.