BTWXTBA | October Wools and Checks

This is the third set of items that Narita-san and I have finished. The temperature has finally started to fall and it is time we brought out the wools and flannels.

BTWXTBA October 2

This cardigan is a slightly altered version of the Doryman sweater. The repair spots are slightly different. Note the button-hole stitching and pocket repairs. BTWXTBA October 3

On the rear side we changed out the hickory stripe elbow pads for sakiori ones. The grey and indigo colours mix in the ecru knit really nicely. The striped pattern breaks up the background Aran patterning nicely.BTWXTBA October 1
BTWXTBA October 4

These items will be available in my Etsy store.
BTWXTBA October 5

This old Big Mac flannel shirt has all the colors of fall with the addition of some charming denim details.BTWXTBA October 6

I wanted to make the shirt more useful as an outer garment. The small coin pocket from a pair of painter pants can now function as a train ticket pocket. The large lower pocket will hold a wallet and some other small items.
BTWXTBA October 7

There are a lot of tiny darned repairs that add a subtle texture.

BTWXTBA October 9

The last items are these two Pendleton wool shirts. The leather patches contrast the subtle colours of each different check. Reminiscent of hunting jackets, the rugged homemade style is purposely simple. These two shirts have darker wool checks will be perfect for mid-fall.

BTWXTBA October 1 (1) BTWXTBA October 12 BTWXTBA October 13

Kapital | Craftsman Store – Jaiken Shirt

This is a custom order from Kapital old-stock fabric. Only available at the Legs craftsman store in Tokyo. Based on a samue -traditional Japanese workwear jacket/shirt. This type of wrapping is typically used in Japan with custom kimono and yukata orders. The craftsman store is the only place you can place custom orders, and they are usually time limited.

This fabric is a herringbone twill. Military inspired fabric, with a traditional kabuki-kimono style rope pattern. The fabric is rugged and durable, this could easily be utilized as a noragi, but I prefer it as a casual light jacket.

Paired with red and grey it is perfect for autumn. I am planning on modifying this piece further to adapt it to my personal function and style.

Doing a scarecrow imitation you can see the t-shape of the pattern.

Kapital Kountry | Sashiko Kenka Shirt and Out-Quilt-Pocket Shorts – In Miyakojima

I took a little trip to Miyakojima in the Ryukyu islands (Okinawa). What better chance to feature some new Kapital items in the natural and beautiful island setting.

 I haven’t worn shorts since… I have no idea really, maybe since I was an adolescent. This year I had a change of mood, I had the paradise island bug and I needed something with an edge. I found these at Kapital and immediately fell in love. The quilted pockets sticking out seemed ridiculous and exactly what I was looking for, not to mention my love of hand stitched repairs. They seem like shorts for exactly the place I ended up, Miyakojima. With the sea-weathered buildings along the streets and the emerald ocean always on the horizon these shorts seemed to have a similar story.

The roughness of the cement building gave way to the soft embrace of mother nature. The ocean side, that emerald gem that is the sea that surounds Miyakojima is something to see for oneself. The tree-lined coral sand beaches are like the selvedge line to the indigo.

This is an indigo dyed ramie with sashiko details “Kenka Shirt”, kenka means fight. This shirt seems to have been inspired by the Nada “Kenka” festival happi. It is a very odd shirt to wear, but definitely Kiro designed this. It feels like it was designed by trial and error, slowly and carefully thought out and improved upon. The fit is very comfortable, the construction solid, and the pocket perfectly placed for a phone. The inside pocket is easily accessible with one hand free, the full square cut means layering with it is no problem. It is a very versatile shirt, which could also be used as a pop-over jacket. This was featured in the Surf Cowboys Spring 2012 and I fell in love with it from there. The Kountry guys did a terrific job on the contrasting kaya sashiko collar, and the chest stitching.

A little more on ramie. It is very similar to hemp as it is a bast fiber. Ramie is a traditional Japanese fiber used in textiles since ancient times. It dries super quickly which makes it good for working in, as you get sweaty.

The weather-worn sign, and the rope remind me of the shirt and the sashiko details.