Use it up, wear it out,
Make it do, or do without.
-Old lighthouse keeper saying
Sakiori is epitome of the Japanese idea of mottainai. A folk craft that really represents a “beauty through poverty” aesthetic, common in the textiles of rural Japan.Basically it is knotted fabric strips rewoven with thick (usually silk or hemp) warp threads. The colour variation of the fabric strips creates their very own unique pattern. On this Doryman sweater we used the front side and back side of some sakiori fabric. The front side has a lot of color-fade, white the opposite side is bright and vibrant.
Both sides blended well with the mottled beige and ecru of the sweater. Black wool yarn was added as a decorative/repair detail. Feeling a little inspiration from koginsashi embroidery we created a sashiko style repair. That adds a little dark contrast.
The elbow pads will strengthen the sweater and the pocket adds convenient function. Nothing better for the colder months ahead than a thick wool sweater.
This is the third set of items that Narita-san and I have finished. The temperature has finally started to fall and it is time we brought out the wools and flannels.
This cardigan is a slightly altered version of the Doryman sweater. The repair spots are slightly different. Note the button-hole stitching and pocket repairs.
On the rear side we changed out the hickory stripe elbow pads for sakiori ones. The grey and indigo colours mix in the ecru knit really nicely. The striped pattern breaks up the background Aran patterning nicely.
This old Big Mac flannel shirt has all the colors of fall with the addition of some charming denim details.
I wanted to make the shirt more useful as an outer garment. The small coin pocket from a pair of painter pants can now function as a train ticket pocket. The large lower pocket will hold a wallet and some other small items.
There are a lot of tiny darned repairs that add a subtle texture.
The last items are these two Pendleton wool shirts. The leather patches contrast the subtle colours of each different check. Reminiscent of hunting jackets, the rugged homemade style is purposely simple. These two shirts have darker wool checks will be perfect for mid-fall.
John Lofgren & Co. is a relatively small company run by California native John Lofgren. Based in Sendai Japan, John’s label is a culmination of high quality, authenticity and eternal style. John has a long standing respect for vintage work-wear garments, and it shows in the clothes, footwear, and accessories he designs.
The classic Brown’s Beach jacket is an icon of 1920’s American style. The famous Worcester, Massachusetts based company were the originators for the elastic weave “that cannot rip or ravel -won’t ‘bind’ the arms”. Originally this jacket was meant as a lightweight top layer piece. There have been countless reproductions of this cloth over the years. Most of them are either too expensive, or too heavy. This is an excellent example of Japanese textile quality. The authentic vintage color and weave is quietly stylish, and incredibly lightweight. The pockets are trimmed with leather accents, and the simple cat’s eye buttons give the jacket a little more charm. The fit has a tailored feeling to it, and I feel the weave has a little elasticity in it. The tagline of the day was: “You can laugh at rain, cold and wind… when you wear This Famous Jacket”. I think I feel a chuckle coming on.
One design feature that popped out at me was the concealable throat-button loop, which keeps things very tidy at the neck-line. The sheer amount of subtle details in this jacket is quite amazing. John obviously spent a lot of time designing this jacket. The craftspeople who produced it, have done a wonderful job constructing it. You can connect with one of these at Speedway.
I am sure most people are fairly familiar with Brown’s Beach Jackets. This vest is inspired by those infamous jackets and vests. The familiar quadruple pockets and snaps are the first familiar eye-catching details.
This vest is all in the details. The zigzag stitching on the lower half and the straight vertical stitching on the upper half create a wonderful texture. The OD green is the army, and the stitching is the quilt.
The two-ply cotton wool fabric is both warm and rugged. Surprisingly light-weight will appeal to both sexes.
Beautiful rivets on the pockets, with contrast edging bring out a nostalgic feeling.